NEMRUT DAĞI SON YILLARDA EN ÇOK TURIST ÇEKEN YÖRELERIMIZDEN BIRI. ÖZELLIKLE KOMMAGENE KRALLIĞI’NIN UYGARLIĞINI TANIMAK ISTEYENLER, ÜNLÜ HEYKELLERI GÜNEŞIN DOĞUŞUNDA GÖREBILMEK IÇIN SABAHIN ILK IŞIKLARI ILE BIRLIKTE DAĞA TIRMANMAYA BAŞLIYORLAR.
Aylardan Haziran, saat 4.00 Bir gün önce kararlaştırdığımız gibi uyandırıldık. Hemen giyindik, yola çıkmalıyız. Önümüzde Adıyaman’dan Nemrut Dağı toplanma noktasına kadar 1 saat sürecek bir minibüs yolculuğu var. Toplanma noktasından sonra herhangi bir özel araç ile tırmanmaya başlanacak noktaya gitmenize izin vermiyorlar. Bu noktada sizi servisler ile yukarıya çıkarıyorlar, yaklaşık 10 dakika daha gidiyoruz. Artık zirveye tırmanacağımız noktadayız, buradan sonrası sizin kondisyonunuza kalmış. Ben sırtımda 18 aylık oğlum ile yaklaşık 30 dakikada tırmandım. Hava aydınlanmadan önce zirvedeydim. Bakalım göreceğiz, gerçekten güneş Nemrut’un tepesinden bakınca bir başka doğuyor mu?
Peki buralara kadar yalnızca Nemrut’un tepesinden güneşin doğuşunu seyredip görüntülemek için mi geldik? Tabii ki hayır. Günlerdir yollarını aşındırdığımız Güneydoğu Anadolu’nun, her geçen gün bizi biraz daha sarıveren büyüsüne muhtemelen bugün bir yenisi eklenecek, bir başka uygarlık daha bizleri kendine hayran bırakacak ve derin derin düşünmeye sevk edecek .
Denizden 2100 metre yükseklikte, Fırat Nehri’ne hâkim bir tepe ve bir tümülüs. M.O. 69- 34 yılları arasında Antiochos adlı bir kral, gerek Batı’da Roma İmparatorluğu’na, Doğu’da Pers İmparatorluğu’na kafa tutup yaklaşarak bölgede ağırlığını duyuruyor ve ölünce gömüleceği yeri belirtiyor. Etkisinde kaldığı tanrılar tanrısı Zeus ile diğer tanrı ve tanrıçaların heykellerinin yanına kendi heykelini koydurmaktan çekinmediği gibi, kendinden sonra anıt sayılmasını istediği mezarını yerden ve havadan gelebilecek tehditlere karşı korumaları için de arslan ve kartal heykelleri diktiriyor.
Mezarını örten tümülüs, Anadolu’nun diğer yerlerinde görmeye alıştığımız türde topraktan değil, küçük taşlardan oluşmuştur. Tümülüsün üç bir yanına, doğu, kuzey ve batı yönlerine teraslar yaptırmış ve bu terasları kolonsal heykellerle süslemiştir. Doğu terasında, cephesinde dokuzar metre yükseklikte altı heykelin bulunduğu bir sunak görülmektedir. Yine aynı yerde Zeus’un ve Antiochos’ın başları da bulunmaktadır. Batı terasındaki en ilginç buluntu, şüphesiz üzerlerinde bazı tanrılar ile Antiochos’ın birlikte tasvir edildiği dört adet kabartmadır. Bu kabartmalardan özellikle bir tanesi doğu sanatı etkileri taşıması bakımından oldukça ilginçtir. Bu kabartmada kralın güneş tanrısı ile el sıkışması tasvir edilmiştir. Yine aynı yerde bulunan çok güzel bir baş heykelinin Antiochos’ın annesi Laodike’ye ait olduğu belirlenmiştir. Kommagene uygarlığı hakkında söylenecek daha çok şey vardır. Ben bir konuya özellikle dikkatinizi çekmek istiyorum. Yıllardır süregelen araştırmalara rağmen hala kralın mezarına ulaşabilmek mümkün olmamıştır. Günümüz insanının elini kolunu böylesine bağlı kılan, 2000 yıl öncesinin hangi tekniğidir yada hangi sırdır?
Nemrut Dağı’na Nasıl Çıkılır?
Nemrut dağına hem Adıyaman’dan hem de Malatya’dan çıkabilirsiniz. Malatya’dan gelecekseniz yaklaşık 2 saatlik bir yolculuk yapmanız gerekiyor. Adıyaman’dan gelecekseniz ise 1,5 saatlik bir yolculuk yapacaksınız demektir. Her iki koşulda da özel araç kullanmanız gerekiyor çünkü bölgeye giden bir toplu taşıma sistemi mevcut değil.
Nemrut Dağına Çıkmadan Öneriler:
- Ya gün doğumunda ya gün batımında çıkın, ara saatlerde bu manzarayı yakalamanız zor.
- Müze Kartınızı yanınıza almayı unutmayın
- Kendi yiyecek ve içeceğinizi yanınıza alın, dağda tesis yok.
- Hangi mevsimde giderseniz gidin yanınıza kalın birşeyler alın.
- Rahat ayakkabılar giyin, dik bir patika tırmanacaksınız.
Nemrut’a gelmişken görebileceğiniz diğer ilgi çekici yerler:
- Karakuş Tümülüsü
- Cendere Köprüsü
- Arsemeia Ören Yeri
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